A Comprehensive Checklist for your next Home Inspection

When it comes to home inspections, be prepared that no home is perfect – not even the brand new homes! In fact, sometimes brand new homes have the most serious issues because no one has ever “test driven” the home for an extended period of time.

Beyond the fresh layer of paint on the walls, the gleaming hardwood floors, and the new countertops, it’s impossible to see the “innards” of the home. For liability purposes, Home Inspectors cannot do anything intrusive or destructive to inspect inside wall cavities, or sometimes for things even as little as turning on a gas fireplace’s pilot light. Their inspection scope is broad, but their ability to dive deep into issues can be restrictive. Their primary goal is to call-out SAFETY issues, as set by modern building codes or health hazards.

Please note: I’m not a home inspector by trade, but I have attended over 100+ home inspections in the past few years and am familiar with typical call-outs during an inspection. This checklist should never be relied on as a home inspection report, nor should it be used in lieu of an actual home inspection. The list is representative, but not exhaustive and I will continue to add to it as my experience expands.

Related: 6 things to expect during a home inspection (as the seller)

Exterior

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Grounds

___ Proper drainage

• The slope of the perimeter around your home should slope down and away from your home instead of towards your home. Typically, this is a result of poor downspout placement – you must drain all downspouts >6″ away from the home. (Figure A)
  • Water pooling too close to the home can result in water intrusion into the home. If prolonged, basements will develop a musty smell meaning there’s mildew and mold growth.
  • It can also cause unwanted settling of your home’s foundation.
  • Homes with wet basements: It’s recommended to install a french drain system or an interior perimeter drain in the basement in addition to a sump pump.

___ Landscaping

Keep trees away from your sewer line!

Source: http://www.seattle.gov/utilities/services/drainage-and-sewer/side-sewers/root-damage

• All plants, trees, and vegetation must be trimmed and cut back away from the home. Any plant matter too close to your home can cause pest infestation.

___ Patios/Sidewalks/Driveways

• Must be sloped away from the home.
• Unevenness due to cracks or settling of the material can be a tripping hazard.

___ Fencing

Source: https://accentfence.net/five-tips-prevent-rot-wood-fence/

___ Sprinkler systems if present (Not usually tested by inspectors)

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The Home’s Structure

___ Siding

Figure B
Source: https://www.roofingcalc.com/best-types-of-house-siding/

• The external envelope of your home is important. It keeps the elements out. Knowing what type of siding you have helps with performing proper maintenance.
  • Plastic vinyl or aluminum metal siding is common in the mid 90s and is relatively maintenance-free.
  • Wood (lap or shingle) siding isn’t common in today’s newer homes, but prevalent in older homes. Maintenance consists of repainting as well as caulking seams every 3-5 years.
  • Concrete fiber cement board or “Hardiplank” is the new kid on the block. Durable, fire/pest/water resistant, and maintenance free, most new construction homes use this product now.

• Ensure ALL penetrations and gaps in the home’s exterior envelope are sealed with silicone weather resistant caulking. You want an air-tight, water-tight seal around your entire home.
• No cracked, curled, loose, decayed, or rotted siding and wood trims.

___ Windows, Doors and Wood Trim

• Same as siding – no rotting, curling, loose, or cracking.
• Ensure all pieces have proper flashing or drip covers.
• All gaps sealed with caulking

___ Foundation

What type of foundation does the home have?

Source: http://sureisfunatwildwood.com/archives1.htm

• Condition
  • Visible foundation should be free of any significant cracks. If you can fit a quarter into the crack, the inspector will call it out. Hairline-sized cracks are normal.
  • Old homes in Seattle can often have uneven settling of their foundation and typically the settling occurs only during the first 10-20 years after the home was built.
  • If the settling was fairly recent, it is 100% a water drainage issue. Refer to the “Proper drainage” section.

___ Roof

• Identify the type of roof you have – Pitched, low-slope, or flat?
  • Pitched: Composite shingle, wood shake, or metal
    • Red flags: cupping or curling of corners, loss of surface granules, fading of color, damaged or missing shingles, “wavy” surface throughout the roof, 2 or more layers of shingles, wood rot/decay (for wood shake shingles)
  • Low-Slope: TPO or EDPM rubber membrane or Low-Slope composite sheets
    • Red flags: imperfections in installation (ask inspector), Low-Slope composite sheets applies to the above as well.
  • Flat: TPO or EDPM rubber membrane
    • Red flags: See above. TPO and EDPM traditionally were used for commercial buildings with no weight-bearing structures pressing against the material, however, modern built townhouses have rooftop decks pressing against the material, therefore, only time will tell how the material holds up due to the additional weight.

Look for curling of edges and significant loss of granules.
Source: https://littlebuckarooconstruction.com/14signs.html

• How old is the roof?
  • Signs of aging can include fading of color, curling of corners, loss of granules, dirt silt or loose seams on TPO/EDPM roofs
  • Composite shingles are the most common type of roofing and generally lasts between 20-30 years. If the home was built in 2000, I can deduce it has either a newer roof or the original roof based on the home’s age.

(Photo source: https://littlebuckarooconstruction.com/14signs.html)

• Roof ventilation
  • The attic needs adequate ventilation: Look for gable, soffit, ridge and/or static vents.
  • Inadequate venting leads to condensation and eventual mold growth in the attic space.
  • The rubber boots on roof vents will fail before the shingles itself (rated for 15 years vs shingles 20-30 years). Look for dried and cracking rubber boots.
• Roof overhang/eaves
  • Homes with a roof that overhangs the home adds significant protection from the rain water.
• Chimney
  • Look for cracking along the mortar joints or the brick itself.
  • Proper metal flashing. A chimney is a giant hole through the roof and needs proper flashing to shed water around and away.
  • Does it have a rain cap? Spark arrestor?
• Gutters
  • No bending, no sagging, joints properly sealed, no leaking, downspouts present and shed water away from home at least 1 feet.
• Flashing around all roof penetrations and drip edges.
• Active leaks are harder to identify in the summer. Your inspector should feel for soft spots on the roof which indicates prior water damage penetrated the shingles and into the OSB boards underneath

___ Attic

• Adequate ventilation (See above “Roof Ventilation). Evidence of mold.
• Insulation
  • Sufficient insulation. The standard today is R-38 or greater (about 10-12 inches). Older homes tend to lack sufficient insulation in the attic AND exterior walls.
  • Soffit vents should not be blocked by insulation. Soffits are air-intakes for the attic.
  • Rodent activity. Squirrels, rats and mice LOVE to nest inside insulation. Look for shuffled insulation or rodent droppings.

• Roof truss and rafters (these hold the roof up)
  • Trusses are common in modern construction
  • Rafters are common in older homes.
  • Homes with rafters: look for water staining, sagging of the wood rafters, “sistering” of split rafters
• Staining on the underside of the OSB panels indicates prior water damage.
• No electrical hazards such as exposed electrical splices.
• No plumbing, bathroom, kitchen exhaust vents terminating inside the attic.

___ Crawl Space

Source: http://www.waterproofingnjbasements.com/crawl-space-vapor-barrier.html

Interior

___ Kitchen

• Exhaust Fan vents to the outside of the home. Some older homes will not have this feature.
• Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) on all outlets within 6 feet of the sink(s). Ideally, the refrigerator should not be on a GFCI outlet.
• Dishwasher: Fits snugly inside the encasement, drains properly, has an air gap mechanism on the sink OR the drain line must create a high loop underneath the sink.
• No leaks under the sink or evidence of it (discoloration or swelling of the cabinet wood flooring)
• All appliances operate properly (refrigerator, stove, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal)
• Water flow is sufficient from kitchen sink.
  • Low flow could mean low water pressure or a blockage in your plumbing lines. If you have older plumbing such as galvanized steel, rust build-up is partially blocking the pipes. Also, check your aerator for bits of clogging debris.

___ Bathrooms

• Exhaust fan must terminate through attic and out the exterior of the home.
• Sufficient flow of water in all fixtures
• Sink, tub, shower all drain properly. The usual culprit for slow draining is clogging due to hair and debris.
• Shower/tub caulking in good condition in and around tub and shower seams
• No evidence of water damage in bathroom. Look for swollen or discolored baseboard trim.
• Toilet
  • Doesn’t wobble. Give it a good wiggle and it should not move.
  • Operates properly
  • No stains around the base
  • Caulking around the base of the toilet. I recommend leaving a small gap should the toilet leak in the future.

___ Interior rooms, bedrooms

• Bedrooms
  • A bedroom must include a closet and an adequate sized window for egress.
    • Bedrooms in basements are common in Seattle. Building code states that windows must be 48 inches from the floor and include a window well.
    • There is a formula to calculate window size for egress, but in estimation, the window should be big enough to fit a firemen wearing an oxygen tank.
    • Real estate agents tend to include bedrooms that are not legal bedrooms in a listing. Verify via city property records.

• Interior Rooms
  • Floors, walls, doors are all plumb and straight. No significant cracks in ceiling or around doors and windows.
  • Electrical outlets work properly and are grounded. In older homes, 3-prong outlets indicate updated electrical systems (but not always)
    • 2-prong outlets: electrical wiring is pre-1960s and are not grounded.
    • Sometimes home owners replace 2-prong outlet covers with 3-prong so it looks updated. Buyer beware.
  • All habitable rooms must have a working source of heating.
  • Fireplace
    • No broken masonry, working dampener, cleaned flue or liner. No creosote build up.

• Windows
  • Vinyl or Fiberglass double pane windows (post 1990s)
    • Life expectancy is 20-30 years for vinyl and 50 for fiberglass.
    • Fogged glass indicates a failed gas seal. Functionally, the window is fine, but it loses some of its heat retention properties.
  • Metal double pane windows (1960-1980ish)
    • I recommend replacing these windows because they tend to condensate in the winter. The moisture can damage your window trims.
  • Single pane windows (pre 1950s)
    • Major heat loss and extremely drafty. Replace these unless there are aesthetic reasons for keeping them.

___ Unfinished Basement

• First and foremost, does it smell musty?
  • Look for evidence of moisture. Efflorescence is a common sign in unfinished basements.
  • If the basement is finished and smells musty, water penetration is present.
  • Common solutions for leaky basements: Sump Pump, Interior French Drains, Exterior French Drain. The goal is to catch the water and redirect it away from the home.
  • Leaky basements occur because of hydrostatic pressure from the water table beneath the home, or the home sits at the bottom of a hill or poor drainage.
• No major cracks, stains or flaking on the foundation.
• All wooden posts and beams are plumb and straight, no sagging, no signs of water damage.

Souce: http://www.mshomeinspections.com/blog/efflorescence-on-a-home-inspection

___ Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (HVAC)

• Furnace, A/C or Heat pump and air handler all work properly
  • Sufficient air flow through all vents
  • Sufficient heating/cooling temperatures
• Flue from gas or oil furnace must vent outside the home usually by chimney.
• No asbestos around heating pipes, water pipes and ducting. The material will look like white paper wrapping material.
• Hydroponic radiant heating (not common)
  • This method of heating can be found in both old and newer homes and utilizes either the hot water tank or a boiler system.
  • In older homes (1900-1920s), hot water circulates into cast iron radiant heaters.
  • Heated floors: hot water is circulated through piping throughout the floor of the home
  • Hot water can also be piped to heat registers in the wall where a fan inside the register distributes the heat. I’ve seen this mostly in smaller townhouses.

___ Plumbing

• What type of plumbing do you have?
  • Galvanized (1940s-1960s)
    • Life expectancy 50-60 years. Subject to rust build up inside the pipe which can restrict water flow and eventually burst.
  • Copper (1970s-2000s)
    • Excellent for plumbing, but labor intensive and expensive. Life expectancy is 50 years.
  • CPVC (1990s)
    • Affordable, plastic, rigid piping. It can become brittle over time so be cautious when working with old CPVC. Life expectancy of the material is 50 years, but variables by way of modern plumbing can shorten its lifespan.
  • PEX (2000s-present)
    • Easiest to install of all plumbing types. Plastic, flexible and easy to install, this is usually a plumber’s preferred choice. Life expectancy is 50 years.

• Water heaters
  • Water heater tank
    • The average lifespan of a water heater is 8-12 years.
    • Water heaters should be seismically strapped to the wall. It will not pass Appraisal if missing.
    • Not required by code, but absolutely recommended, is an expansion tank.
  • Tankless water heater
    • More efficient as this style heats the water as it’s being used, but expensive to convert from a water heater tank to tankless.
    • The average lifespan of a tankless water heater is 20 years.
  • Hot water temperature should be no more than 125 degrees. It is adjustable on the heater itself.

Related: Tank Vs. Tankless Water Heater

___ Water pressure 

• The recommended residential PSI pressure per square inch (PSI) is between 40-80 PSI.
  • Any time your PSI registers above 80, it’s recommended you have a plumber install a Pressure Regulator Valve (PRV) inside your home’s water supply line.
  • Lower PSI puts less stress on your water fixtures when they’re turned on and off. Imagine a train going full speed and then coming to complete halt 20x a day (see water hammer). If your PSI is too high, it can prematurely wear out your plumbing fixtures.
  • On the flip side, very low PSI in a multi-story home will equate to weak water pressure on the 2nd or 3rd story of your home (Each consecutively higher floor drops PSI by around 8 due to gravity)

___ Electrical

• What type of electrical wiring does the home have?
  • Knob and tube (1900-1940s)
    • Known to overheat and can cause fires if touching insulation. Usually only a problem in the attic, but not basements.
  • Sheathed aluminum (1950s-1970s)
    • This type of wiring is not grounded. Why is grounding important?
    • Homes built between 1965-1972 likely have aluminum branch circuit wiring and should be replaced with modern copper wiring.
  • Copper romex (1980s-present)
    • This is modern electrical wiring.

• Electrical Panel
  • Is it a 125 or 200 amp panel? You can tell which it is by looking at the main breaker switch on the top (if available) OR if there’s a label on the swinging door of the panel.
    • 125 amp panels leave little room for expansion inside the panel. No room for A/C, hot tub, 2nd kitchen, etc.
  • No wire splices, double taps, incorrect wire size connections to circuit breakers, no visible rust.
  • Are the electrical wires organized in a neat and orderly fashion? This is a sign of professional work vs DIYer.
  • Two recalled electrical panels
    • Zinsco and Federal Pacific are two of the recalled electrical panel brands. If the home has these, it must be replaced (~$2500)

___ Sewer Scope Inspection

• PRO-TIP: Before scheduling a sewer scope inspection, look up the side sewer layout. This applies only to homes older than 1990s with clay or concrete sewer lines. If the home is in Seattle, you can use the Side Sewer Card to see layout of your sewer line.

• No trees or heavy vegetation growth directly on top of the sewer line. If there isn’t an issue with the line now, there will be one in the future because of the roots.
• How long is the sewer line? With how many neighbors do you share the line until the main sewer line? If your sewer line is furthest up the chain, any repairs along the line you will need to share the cost with your neighbors. However, if you connect with the sewer line furthest down the chain (closest to the main sewer line), due to the length of the sewer line you utilize, your liability is significantly less than the others who share the line upstream.

• What material is the sewer line?
  • Clay (1900s-1940s): Brittle and should be replaced if there are any issues.
  • Concrete (1950s-1980s): Concrete pipes connect as segments and do not have airtight joints and therefore root growth intrusion can occur. Because concrete erodes over time from water flow, many of these systems have failed or are failing. The material itself is stiff and ill-placed roots from trees can eventually crush the pipes, causing a collapse and sewage backup into the home.
  • ABS plastic (mid 1990s – present): All new residential sewer lines use this product and are highly flexible, resistant to cracking and does not erode. The only times I’ve personally seen ABS plastic fail is from faulty installation.
• Look for breaks, offsets, and sags in the sewer line.
  • Break: visible crack of the sewer line itself. It can be a problem if the sewage water is seeping through the crack.
  • Offset: butt ends not lining up correctly due to the ground settling around it and is now offset.
  • Sag: A sag in the line is a section of the line where the water sits
    stagnant. Look for any stuck debris or buildup.

Related: Overwhelmed? Buying vs Renting a Home

___ Septic Tanks

• While septic tanks are not common in Seattle city limits, septic tank maintenance is important as you DO NOT want sewage to back up into your home.
  • The seller should drain the septic tank a week prior to closing.
  • Always have an septic tank inspector thoroughly inspect the septic system. Your home inspector will not be able to perform the inspection unless certified to do so.
  • Consider buying a Septic Warranty before you close on your home should it back up. Your home insurance will most likely not cover any damages.

___ Miscellaneous

• Stairways
  • If the stairway has 3 or more steps, a hand railing is required, per modern building code.
  • Adequate and secure railings are required on decks. The railings must be spaced less than 4 inches apart.
• Smoke alarms and CO detectors
  • One smoke alarm required per bedroom and living space
  • CO detectors required on each floor and within 6 feet of every bedroom. The Appraisal will fail if no CO detectors are in the home.
• Garage
  • If the garage is attached to the home, ensure there are no air gaps on the wall between the garage and the inside of the home. If there are, it should be sealed with fire-rated expansion foam.
  • Automatic garage doors should have sensors to detect if something is blocking the door from closing and should automatically retract should the door sense any resistance.

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A home inspection can be overwhelming if there are many issues. You should ask many questions. A good real estate agent will help guide you with what to look for and questions to ask the inspector. Some inspectors encourage you to shadow them around the home, observe, and ask questions, while some others prefer to only give you verbal summaries at the end. With both approaches, you will receive a full written report at the end so don’t fret if you forget to jot down notes!

During negotiation, focus on the larger issues and less on the laundry list of smaller items. Are any of the larger issues a deal breaker? Consider asking the inspector for rough estimates as to how much each repair should cost or consider getting an estimate from a specialized contractor and use as leverage to negotiate to have the problem fixed or reduce the purchase price.

Of the 100+ inspections I’ve attended, never have I ever seen a no-issue home inspection, not even in a new construction home!